Our way of life on board is best described as “Vi tar det lugnt,” Swedish for “we take it easy.” We travel without a specific plan or target; the voyage is important, not necessarily the destination. After a crossing, we slow down, explore the environment, and enjoy the local atmosphere and culture. We anchor often and prefer to moor at small fishing quays, which is a great way to meet local people and get a feel for the island’s way of life. Traveling without a schedule allows us to adjust our plans and enjoy the moment, especially in these waters.

The Faroe Islands are situated about 150-200 miles from either the Hebrides, Orkney, or Shetland. The Faroes are a self-governing nation under the external sovereignty of the Kingdom of Denmark and not a member of the European Union. The Faroese language derives from old Norse, but English is widely spoken, as well as a mix of Scandinavian languages. It is not a common cruising destination, and yachts coming to the Faroes are predominantly on their way to Iceland.

At anchor in the bay of Svinoy, open to the NE, but comfortable with no wind or swell. Photo: Albert de Nijs and Claudia Koppeno

There is a strong cultural identity on the islands, anchored in traditional values and the acceptance that some forces are stronger than men. Just take it as it comes and deal with it. The Faroese people call this Kanska (maybe) – it applies to life on remote islands and sailing. Plans are always followed by “maybe,” depending on wind, tide, weather, sea-state, and the mood of the day. With a population of seafarers, sea transport is the lifeblood of island communities. Arriving with our own yacht made us feel extra welcome, and we met many very friendly and helpful people.

We arrived in Nólsoy (opposite Tórshavn) after a comfortable 36-hour crossing from Orkney. A high-pressure area extended all the way from Iceland over the Faroe Islands and Shetland towards Norway. There were stable and settled conditions, lots of sunshine, but little wind. That wasn’t the weather the yachts planning to cross to Iceland were waiting for, but for us, it opened many possibilities. We spent almost five weeks cruising the islands before sailing to Shetland.

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It’s a challenging but very rewarding cruising area. The landscape is largely unspoiled and easily accessible, with endless hills, lots of sheep, and fantastic views. There is a strong cultural identity, and we found the Faroese people to be very friendly, helpful, and extremely resourceful. Seafood is by far the largest industry, accounting for more than 90% of exports. Aquaculture and fish processing is a growing industry, resulting in an increasing demand for labor (often from abroad) and associated pressure on the local housing market. The shift from fishing to aquaculture and fish processing has a stabilizing effect on the economy.

Northern Islands

There are no harbors on the exposed outside of the Northern Islands (Norðoyggjar), only a few bays. The calm weather allowed us to sail very close to the imposing cliffs and anchor in remote bays. We used aerial photos from Google Maps to find a nice sandy bottom to drop anchor. The islands of Virðoy, Borðoy, and Kunoy are linked together by road causeways. The steep cliffs on the north side rise more than 700m straight from the ocean. Klaksvik, the second-largest town in the Faroes, is located on the inside of Borðoy in a very sheltered location.

Friendly Tórshavn has guest pontoons right in the centre of town. Photo: Albert de Nijs and Claudia Koppeno

The two larger islands, Streymoy and Eysturoy, lie close together, separated by a narrow and shallow (2.6m) sound. A bridge crosses the sound at Norðskáli with limited height (17m) for yachts. The new Eysturoy undersea tunnel connects these two islands close to Tórshavn. New tunnels are being built continuously throughout the islands, making commuting easier and less weather dependent. The aim is to keep these small communities alive.

Fuglafjørður lies on the east side of Eysturoy, a great harbor for shopping and water, with a pontoon right in front of the FK supermarket. Just north of Eysturoy are two legendary rocks: Risin and Kellingin. According to legend, an Icelandic giant and his wife tried to tow the Faroes to Iceland. It took longer than expected, and as they were about to go home to Iceland, the sun rose and turned them into stone.

Tjørnuvik is located on Streymoy’s north coast in a beautiful bay, famous for surfing. We anchored close offshore, with only a bit of wind and swell coming in. Early in the morning, we saw the sunrise over Risin and Kellingin, and later we hiked up the mountains behind Tjørnuvik for spectacular views. Eiði is a safe haven a few miles to the east if the weather becomes less favorable.

The next day, we anchored off Saksun and explored the black sand beach and the tidal basin. The cliffs are impressive, and we enjoyed sailing close to them. We sailed around Mykines as the swell didn’t allow us to go ashore. Instead, we anchored at Bøur (Vágar).

Vestmanna is a settlement on Streymoy opposite Vágar in a sheltered bay with a quay and beach for anchoring. Tides run fiercely in the Vestmannasund, and we timed our departure to enjoy a smooth and fast ride. You can play the eddies, but that requires local knowledge.

Koltur and Hestur are two lovely islands just southwest of Streymoy, about two hours of sailing from Tórshavn. Koltur has no harbor, just a sandy bay close to the jetty. In settled conditions, it’s a perfect place to anchor and explore. The western side of the island is high and steep, with breathtaking views.

Hestur has a population of about 20 people, and the small harbor is served by a ferry. There are floating pontoons with electricity for fishing boats and visiting yachts. Both islands are great for hiking.

Motoring along the coast just north of Saksun. Photo: Albert de Nijs and Claudia Koppeno

Respectful Hiking

In Scandinavia and Scotland, the ‘Allemansrätten’ and the Scottish Outdoor Access Code give everyone freedom to roam on private land and explore the beauty of the country. According to Faroese legislation, walking on the in- and outfields requires the landowners’ permission.

Puffins and other birds thrive here as there are no cats or vermin. Photo: Albert de Nijs and Claudia Koppeno

Mass tourism has not yet reached these islands, but even moderate tourist pressure could disturb the untouched nature of this delicate environment. Small villages and communities with people living a more or less traditional lifestyle are easily overwhelmed by busloads of tourists looking for that perfect photo for Instagram.

As a result, a few hiking routes have implemented restrictions regarding access to the area, and landowners require a (hefty) fee if you choose to walk in that location. You can hike freely along the old paths connecting villages (bygdagøtan), which are often marked with cairns. Hitchhiking worked well for us, allowing us to follow these old village paths over the mountains back to the boat.

Clouds quickly descended when approaching Saksun. Photo: Albert de Nijs and Claudia Koppeno

Southern Islands

Sandoy is located halfway between Streymoy and Suðeroy, with harbors at Skopun (north), Skálavik (east), and Sandur (south). When arriving somewhere by yacht, it is often challenging to try and explore further afield, especially when there is little public transport and few cars to try hitchhiking. In Skálavik, we were thankful when a friendly local offered to show us around the whole island – it was the perfect way to learn more about island life and culture from someone who lived there.

We had some unstable weather and found shelter in Sandur harbor. A small ferry sails to Skúgvoy – a great island if you’re looking for serious hiking or want to do some birdwatching. Stóra Dímun and Lítla Dímun are small and steep islands. Stóra Dímun has a challenging jetty and an even more difficult trail up the mountain. We decided to skip the challenge this time.

Basking in the solitude on the beach at Saksun. Photo: Albert de Nijs and Claudia Koppeno

Suðeroy (South Island) measures 20 by five miles and lies approximately 30 miles south of Tórshavn. It is very accessible; a short walk out of town, and you’re immersed in nature. The west coast is steep and rugged, and the bays and harbors are all on the eastern side. From north to south, there is Hvalba, Tvøroyri, and Vágur. The ferry connecting Tórshavn and Suðeroy sails from Tvøroyri bay and takes 2 hours. We waited for good weather in Vágur before sailing to Papa Stour on Shetland, another rugged and remote island.

We really love the Faroes, the relaxed people, the wonderful nature, and its remoteness. We will definitely return to explore some more.

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