Bleary eyed, we stumbled out of our sleeping bags as the boat rocked gently on her berth. Fumbling around we clad ourselves with nautical attire, had some breakfast and prepared for the high seas. It was three in the morning and the peace was about to be interrupted by the throaty noise of the engine firing up followed by the gleam from the stern navigation light illuminating the push pit. The ungodly reveille was necessary to negotiate the Conwy fairway and its sand bar. I calculated that we had an hour to safely cross this on an ebb tide.

The sense of adventure was in the air and all of us knew it. On board to enjoy the experience were my friends Colin, Jeremy and Tim, trusty old sea salts. They were going to help sail Musketeer, a Westerly Storm, from Conwy in Wales to Kerrera Marina in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides.

The sunset illuminates Bangor Bay, Belfast. Photo: Nick Leather

With the rhumb line drawn and the necessary tidal calculations made, we departed and with winds being light, started motor sailing. As the sun rose in the east, the Welsh coast faded away on the horizon and we were visited by the most unlikely of creatures. A small green and unassuming bird landed on the cockpit and flew into the cabin. After a short inspection it smartly retreated outside. Colin took a photo and identified it as a greenfinch – one little bird with a remarkably adventurous streak.

Sailing Across the Irish Sea – First stop: the Isle of Man

After a number of hours, the Isle of Man coastline took shape and with the tide firmly in our favour, we made our way through Calf Sound. Gazing over our port side, we saw a series of old lighthouses standing proud though long abandoned. The only functional lighthouse loomed in the sea about six cables southwest of the Isle of Man. Calf Sound was to have its own surprises – numerous seals bobbed up to look inquisitively at us.

Peel Harbour and castle, Isle of Man. Photo: David Coleman | Have Camera Will Travel / Alamy

We reached the recommended waypoint to enter Peel Harbour after running up past the southwest side of the Isle of Man and its imposing cliffs. Peel is the third-largest town on the island and is situated on the best natural harbour on the west coast. It is also known as the ‘Sunset City’ as evocative sunsets can
be viewed here.

On arrival, we picked up a buoy as it was nearing low tide with the approaches to the inner harbour drying. That was fine, though, as we had a relaxed meal with the backdrop of the magnificent 11th-century Peel Castle built by the Norwegian king Magnus III, better known as Magnus Barefoot. As the light failed, the castle was illuminated by artificial light, making a most dramatic sight against the dark night sky.

The Hutcheson Monument, overlooking Ardentrive Bay in Kerrera, is a tribute to David Hutcheson for his contribution to maritime safety. Photo: John Peter Photography / Alamy Stock Photo

The following day, there was an air of anticipation as we beat across the Irish Sea towards the coast of Ireland pushed by a cool crisp northerly Force 3-4 under overcast skies. Was it the captivating scenery, wildlife or just thoughts of visiting new places in Ireland and Scotland that added a strong sense of adventure? Indeed, one could almost taste the Guinness and single malt whisky in the salty air.

With sails drawn in hard and seated out on the windward side of the cockpit, the refreshing sea air was invigorating. All seemed OK as we approached the Irish coast and one could make out the rugged outline and the silhouette of the dramatic Mourne mountains. Even though the winds were forecast to be light and on the nose, it veered and increased to a satisfying strength, and, with a full main and 95% jib, we ploughed on close-hauled with a reasonable 6 knots over the ground.

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In Titanic’s wake

As the light started to fail and the wind backed, we decided to turn on the engine and motor sail up the Donaghadee Sound, which runs up the west side of Copeland Island. Almost on cue, a small pod of dolphins swam across the bow and frolicked amidships and then fell away astern.

After rounding a northerly cardinal at South Briggs, we headed for Bangor Bay and we could see the multiple fairway buoys leading up to Belfast. It seemed incredible to think RMS Titanic made her way down here over a century ago.

Now, completely in the dark, we headed for the red jetty light of Bangor Marina and then the heavens opened, lashing us with hard, driving rain. Just before 2300, wet and bedraggled, we eventually found our berth.

Colin and Tim on watch en route to Gigha. Photo: Nick Leather

Having never savoured the delights of Belfast we spent the next day venturing into town to visit the awe-inspiring Titanic Museum. We also sampled the warm ‘Belfast welcome’ along with a variety of beers in an eclectic mixture of stylish pubs.

Magical scottish scenery

The following morning, we departed Bangor into bright sun and light north-easterly winds. For this passage we motor sailed across Bangor Bay with the warm sun shimmering brightly on a slight sea. The coastline was striking, with rugged rocky cliffs topped with green grass. We passed Maiden Island and the Saddle, a group of rocks to starboard with a lighthouse and a lonely, abandoned light keepers’ cottage overlooking the sea. In flat calm and virtually no wind we could make out Rathlin Island through a developing haze. Then turning to port we made our way into the harbour at Ballycastle.

Gylen Castle, Isle of Kerrera. Photo: Wojciech Kruczynski / Alamy Stock Photo

Having managed to avoid Vikings off the Isle of Man and successfully slipping the clutches of leprechauns, we bade farewell to Northern Ireland. The sky was overcast and there were light easterly winds as we left Rathlin to starboard and set a course to avoid the Traffic Separation Scheme just to the north. Out of the lee of the island, the wind rose to 14 knots and we made good speed under a close reach. As a bonus, the clouds gradually dispersed to give bright sunshine, lighting up the Hebridean islands ahead.

With the Mull of Kintyre to starboard, the dramatic but hazy outline of Jura and Islay came into view. We had never seen such evocative scenery. Our destination was the Isle of Gigha, a southern Inner Hebridean island which is regarded as a good stopping post with multiple anchorages to suit all directions of the wind.

Stunning tropical colours in the Isle of Gigha. Photo: Steve Taylor / Alamy Stock

As the Irish landscape diminished and the Scottish courtesy flag raised in the starboard spreader, the black mass of Gigha began to take form and grow in the distance. We reached our remote sandy anchorage in the lee of the island and dropped anchor in 4m of water. A grey seal eyed us as she loafed on a rock. With the engine off and checking our anchoring transit we swung very gently to and fro as the sounds of nature enveloped us, with the occasional cry of distant seagulls.

As the sun set to the west and the light danced on the ripples, a very gentle warm breeze made the anchorage so welcome. It allowed us the pleasure of experiencing nature and the jaw-dropping scenery. Twilight fell and the stars started to pop their sparkling heads out of the dark velvet sky, slowly forming into the constellations we knew.

At daybreak the following morning, the wind had risen and was blowing from the southeast. After weighing anchor, we departed with one reef, but with the wind progressively increasing, we required a second reef. The skies were taking on their characteristic thick grey that would give way to periods of sharp showers. At least we could enjoy the beam reach, clocking up to 7.3 knots over the ground. As we sailed in a northwesterly direction the Isles of Jura and the mainland became progressively closer, it felt we were slowly funnelled in.

Rounding Fair Head in Northern Ireland as Rathlin Island comes into view. Photo: Nick Leather

With the winds rising to over 20 knots there was a sudden bang and the mainsail lurched to port and started flogging. It took a few seconds to register what had happened. We then realised that the stopper knot on the mainsheet had come undone and had pulled out of the boom pulleys. Engine on, we turned into the wind and managed to re-thread the mainsheet through the blocks and secure the end of the sheet. We could finally progress on our way again, past the islands of Reisa An T-Struith and Reisa Mhic Phaidean. We left the island of Shuna to port and headed for the entrance into Craobh Haven marina.

Navigating the race

We rose early the next day and ventured out of Craobh harbour into cloudy mist and drizzle with our final destination being Kerrera marina. As it was our last full sailing day we decided on a convoluted route which meant traversing the Gulf of Corryvreckan. Situated between Scarba and Jura this 6-cable stretch of water is a notorious tide race which can quickly transform into a churning mass of whirlpools. Strong tides of 8-10 knots combine with an uneven seabed to create dramatic seas in even moderate winds – waves of over 9m have been recorded.

The 1929 tall ship Phoenix moored in Belfast, has been used for TV and films such as Hornblower, Poldark and The Heart of the Sea. Photo: Nick Leather

It is only to be approached by sailors at slack tide. Fortunately, for us, it proved to be no more than a damp squib. Careful planning meant we arrived at slack tide, and with light winds, the Gulf of Corryvreckan thankfully proved to be a docile and placid lamb, not a raging bull.

After leaving Scarba to starboard we motor sailed in a north-westerly direction along the north side of Garvellachs – a group of islets with rocky foreshores and sandy beaches, which looked beautiful but desolate. The sea took on a mirror-like form with little wind to agitate the surface as we now made our way past Insh Island. As we entered the Sound of Kerrera we had the high heather escarpments of Kerrera and the mainland on either side whilst in the distance one could pick out the picturesque town of Oban with the black and white Caledonian MacBrayne ferries ploughing in and out of the northern entrance.

Colin, Jeremy and Tim sailing to the Isle of Man. Photo: Nick Leather

Finally turning to port, we took up our mooring at Kerrera marina situated on the northeast side of the island. This small harbour also holds much historical interest being a coastal command station for the Sunderland flying boats during the Second World War.

Having had a bite to eat we climbed up the banks of the surrounding hills to gain stunning 360° views, with shafts of sunlight illuminating the distant mountains. It would allow us to survey the dramatic scenery and show us the way for another adventure up the glistening Sound of Mull.

The usually turbulent Gulf of Corryvreckan was in a friendly mood when Nick and his crew encountered it. Photo: Brian Gavin / Alamy Stock Photo

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